The 2026 Landscape & Astro Gear Guide

What Actually Matters (And What Doesn't)

Dylan Knight Photography • February 2026 Newsletter

Australian Pricing Landscape + Astro Field-Tested Full Guide

Tight on time? Start with the cheat sheet, or keep reading the full guide below.

If you've been putting off upgrading your gear because you're overwhelmed by choice, this guide cuts through the noise. I've tested most of this equipment in Australian conditions—from humid Queensland coastlines to freezing alpine astro shoots. This isn't about chasing specs. It's about making smart choices that won't hold you back when conditions are perfect.

Australian Pricing Referenced Throughout (Feb 2026)
Focus: Landscape + Astrophotography (the crossover is intentional)
Bias: Field reliability over lab performance

📑 Quick Navigation

The Uncomfortable Truth About Gear

Before we dive into recommendations, let's establish three things

1. Your current camera is probably fine

If you're shooting with anything from the last 6 years that has 20+ megapixels and manual controls, the camera isn't your limitation. The tripod, lens, and your field technique matter more. I've seen stunning Milky Way shots from 2016 Sony A6000s and disappointing images from brand-new Z9s.

2. Sensor technology plateaued around 2018

Dynamic range improvements since then are marginal. A 2018 sensor and a 2026 sensor will capture nearly identical landscapes. What's improved is autofocus (which you won't use for landscapes), video features (irrelevant for stills), and ergonomics.

3. The upgrade you actually need might not be a camera

Most photographers would see bigger improvements from:

  • A legitimate carbon fibre tripod (not $80 Amazon knock-offs)
  • A fast wide-angle prime lens
  • Learning to focus stack properly
  • Understanding tide/swell/moon phase correlation

That said, if you're starting fresh or genuinely outgrowing your current setup, here's how to think about it.

A Note on Pricing & Purchasing

Transparency about my reseller partnerships and how I can help

All prices in this guide are AUD, current as of February 2026.

I'm an authorised reseller for several brands that matter for landscape/astro work:

  • NiSi Filters (the filters I actually use and trust)
  • Leofoto tripods (Australian warranty, better pricing than retail)
  • Other specialist gear (ask if you're after something specific)

I also have access to 10% off Nikon Australia genuine stock (cameras + lenses) for serious buyers ready to purchase.

Why I'm mentioning this: If you're ready to buy after reading this guide, I can often help with better pricing than retail depending on the item, and you get the same genuine Australian warranty you'd get from any retailer. For Nikon products specifically, I don't earn commission—I'm just passing on the discount. For NiSi and Leofoto, standard reseller margins apply.

If you'd rather buy elsewhere, that's completely fine. The recommendations in this guide are based on what I use and trust in Australian conditions, not what earns me commission.

How to Use This Guide

Organised by shooter type, not just budget

Find yourself in one of these categories:

Type A: "I want to start landscape photography"

You have: Maybe a phone, maybe an old camera gathering dust
You need: Reliable foundation, won't break the bank
Jump to: Starter Foundation Kit ($1,500-2,500)

Type B: "I shoot landscapes but want to add Milky Way"

You have: Decent camera, kit lens or basic zoom
You need: Fast wide glass, better low-light performance
Jump to: Astro Upgrade Path

Type C: "I'm serious about this, ready to invest properly"

You have: Experience, know what you're doing
You need: Pro-grade reliability, weather sealing, future-proof
Jump to: All-Rounder Pro Kit ($4,000-6,000)

Type D: "I want the absolute best for landscapes"

You have: Budget is secondary to quality
You need: Maximum detail, print-worthy files
Jump to: High-Resolution Landscape Kit

Part 1: Starter Foundation Kit

Budget: $1,500–2,500 AUD • Use Case: Learning fundamentals, weekend shoots, building skills

The Smart Entry Point (Used Full-Frame)

Nikon D750 (used)

~$850-1,100

Why this over new crop sensor:

  • True full-frame for $700 less than entry mirrorless
  • 24MP is plenty for landscape work
  • Excellent battery life (critical for cold astro nights)
  • Dual SD slots (never lose a shoot to card failure)
  • Mature lens ecosystem = cheap used glass
Real talk: This camera is from 2014. It won't wow your friends with specs. It will deliver files indistinguishable from cameras 3x the price. When I first started, I shot wildlife, landscape, and astro with a D3400 and kit lenses—some of those images are still my favourites.

Alternative: Nikon Z5 (used, ~$1,400) if you prefer mirrorless


Lens: Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8

~$400-500

The Milky Way secret weapon

This lens has been recommended for a decade because it works. Manual focus (you're on a tripod anyway), minimal coma at the edges, f/2.8 is bright enough for stars without a tracker.

Yes, autofocus versions exist. No, you don't need them for landscape/astro.

Tripod: Leofoto LP-364CEX Poseidon + LH-40LR Ball Head

The upgrade that actually matters

This is where beginners go wrong: $1,500 camera on a $120 tripod. Wind, long exposures, and focus stacking don't forgive wobbly legs.

What you're paying for:

  • Carbon fibre (lighter for hikes, essential for stability)
  • 4-section legs reach ground-level angles
  • Load capacity that won't sag during 30s exposures
  • Water-resistant (critical for seascapes)
  • Levelling base built-in
Full disclosure: I'm a Leofoto reseller and this is the exact tripod I currently use in the field. I can help with better pricing than retail on Leofoto Australian stock, plus you get the full warranty. But honestly, any quality carbon tripod in this range will serve you well—Sirui, Benro, or even used Really Right Stuff if you find one.

Alternatives: Leofoto LS-284C (lighter, slightly less robust) or LS-324C (heavier, more stable)

Avoid: Anything under 1.2kg load capacity, aluminium at this price point


Remote: Cheap intervalometer

~$25-40

Neewer or equivalent. They all work. Don't overthink this.


TOTAL: ~$1,625-2,090

What you can shoot with this:

  • Milky Way panoramas
  • Sunrise/sunset long exposures
  • Seascapes with motion blur
  • Focus-stacked landscapes (critical skill to learn)
  • Star trails and basic time-lapses

What this setup can't do:

  • Wildlife (no telephoto)
  • Low-light action (manual lenses, older AF)
  • Rapid-fire compositions (you're on a tripod, embrace slow)

Part 2: Astro Upgrade Path

For existing camera owners wanting night sky capability

If you already own a camera body from the last 6 years with decent high-ISO performance (Sony A6xxx, Fuji X-T2+, Nikon Z5+, Canon R6/R8/RP), you don't need a new body for astro.

You need THIS:

Fast wide-angle prime

Budget (~$400-600):

  • Samyang 12mm f/2 (Sony E, Fuji X)
  • Samyang 14mm f/2.8 (Full-frame mounts)
  • Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN (APS-C Sony/Canon/Nikon)

Mid-tier (~$900-1,500):

  • Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G
  • Nikon Z 20mm f/1.8 S
  • Canon RF 16mm f/2.8

Why f/1.8-2.8 matters for astro:

f/2.8 gathers 4x more light than f/5.6 (typical kit lens)
f/1.8 gathers 8x more light

= Shorter exposures = less star trailing = sharper stars

Field Note: With a 20mm lens at f/1.8, ISO 3200, you can capture the Milky Way core in 10-15 seconds. With a kit 18-55mm at f/5.6, you'd need 60+ seconds and would get star trails.

Optional: Star Tracker (~$400-800)

When to buy one:

  • You've mastered single-exposure Milky Way shots
  • You want deeper sky detail (nebulae, galaxies)

Recommendations:

  • Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack (~$550)
  • iOptron SkyGuider Pro (~$600)
What I use: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i (Pro Pack). Solid, reliable, good value for money.
Reality check: Most landscape photographers never need a tracker. If you're primarily doing wide-field Milky Way with foregrounds, skip this. If you want to photograph M31 Andromeda with detail, grab one.

Part 3: All-Rounder Pro Kit

Budget: $4,000–6,000 AUD • Use Case: Regular shooting, need reliability, considering print sales

Camera Body Options

Nikon Z6 III (new)

~$3,800-4,200

Current sweet spot for landscape + astro

  • 24MP (perfect balance for file size vs detail)
  • Partially stacked sensor (better rolling shutter than Z6 II)
  • IBIS (helpful for handheld scouting, marginal for tripod work)
  • Dual card slots (essential for paid work)
  • Weather sealing you can trust
  • EN-EL15c battery life is exceptional
Buyer's note: I have access to 10% off Nikon Australia genuine stock for serious buyers (use code DYLAN10). On a Z6 III body at current retail pricing, that's genuine savings with full local warranty. If you're ready to purchase, reach out before buying retail.
Why not Z8/Z9? The 45MP sensor creates enormous files. For landscape work where you're focus stacking 5-15 images, you're looking at 400MB-1GB per final image. Storage and processing times matter.

Sony A7 IV (new)

~$3,800-4,000

If you're already invested in Sony glass

  • 33MP hits a good resolution sweet spot
  • Excellent menu system (finally)
  • Great third-party lens support
  • Solid weather sealing

Downside: Battery life is merely okay. Bring spares for cold astro nights.


Canon EOS R6 Mark II

~$3,900

Best ergonomics, slightly lower res

  • 24MP
  • Best autofocus in class (wasted on landscapes, useful for travel/wildlife flexibility)
  • Excellent weather sealing
  • RF lens mount is expensive but optically superb

Lens Recommendations (Pro Kit)

Wide-angle prime for astro:

  • Nikon Z 20mm f/1.8 S (~$1,400 used) — Zero coma, clinically sharp
  • Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G (~$1,200 used)
  • Canon RF 16mm f/2.8 (~$500) — Budget-friendly RF option

Versatile zoom for landscapes:

  • Nikon Z 24-120mm f/4 S (~$1,500 used) — Do-everything range
  • Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G (~$1,600 used)
  • Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L (~$1,700)

Ultra-wide for dramatic landscapes:

  • Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 S (~$1,600)
  • Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM (~$2,800) — Fast + wide
  • Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L (~$3,100)

TOTAL PRO KIT EXAMPLE (Nikon):

  • Z6 III body: $4,000
  • Z 20mm f/1.8 S: $1,400
  • Z 24-120mm f/4 S: $1,500
  • Leofoto LS-324C tripod: $550
  • Total: ~$7,450
Yes, it's over the stated budget. Pro kits creep. Budget $6K, expect $7-8K with cards, filters, and accessories.

Part 4: High-Resolution Landscape Kit

Budget: $6,000+ AUD • Use Case: Print sales, commercial work, maximum detail

If you're printing 1m+ wide or cropping heavily, resolution matters.

The Resolution Kings

Sony A7R V

~$6,200

  • 61MP sensor
  • Pixel-shift mode (240MP composites)
  • Excellent weather sealing
  • AI-based subject detection (useful for wildlife if you branch out)
Real-world consideration: 61MP files are 120MB+ RAW. Focus stacking 10 images = 1.2GB per final. Make sure your computer can handle it.

Nikon Z8

~$5,500-6,000

  • 45MP
  • Stacked sensor (overkill for landscapes but nice for flexibility)
  • Identical sensor to Z9, smaller body
  • 8K video if you care (you probably don't for landscapes)

Fuji GFX 100 II

~$10,000

Medium format option

  • 102MP
  • Larger-than-full-frame sensor
  • Unmatched detail for large prints
  • Heavy (1.0kg+ body only)
Honest take: Unless you're shooting commercial landscape work for high-end clients or gallery prints, this is overkill. The lens selection is limited and expensive.

Part 5: What NOT to Buy

Let's save you some money and regret

❌ Avoid These Cameras for Landscape/Astro:

Action-oriented bodies with high megapixels

Nikon Z9, Canon R3, Sony A1

Why: You're paying for speed/AF you won't use. The sensors are excellent, but you're overpaying.

Micro Four Thirds for serious astro

OM-1, GH6, etc.

Why: Smaller sensor = more noise at high ISO. For Milky Way work, you want all the photon-gathering area you can get.

Ultra-budget mirrorless

Canon R100, Nikon Z fc

Why: Fine for learning, but you'll outgrow them fast. Better to buy used full-frame.


❌ Lens Mistakes to Avoid:

  • Kit zooms for astro (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6): Too slow. You need f/2.8 or faster for clean results. You can get away with f/4 lenses, but you'll need really high ISO (6400+) to compensate, which introduces more noise.
  • Ultra-wide zooms as your only lens: 14-24mm sounds versatile, but you'll find yourself wanting a normal range (24-70mm) constantly.
  • Cheap third-party fast primes with terrible coma: Some older Samyang/Rokinon designs have terrible corner performance. Research astro-specific reviews.

❌ Tripod Red Flags:

  • "Carbon fibre" tripods under $200: Probably isn't real CF or has plastic joints that flex. Load capacity claims are fiction.
  • Ball heads under $100: Will drift during long exposures. Struggle with heavier setups.

Part 6: The Forgotten Essentials

You've spent $3,000 on camera + lens. Don't cheap out on these.

Memory Cards That Won't Lose Your Work

  • SanDisk Extreme Pro 128GB (~$80-120)
  • Sony TOUGH SF-G 128GB (~$140-180)
Speed matters less for landscape (you're not shooting bursts), but reliability matters enormously. UHS-II minimum.

Spare Batteries

  • Buy OEM (original equipment manufacturer)
  • Third-party batteries die in cold astro conditions
  • Budget $80-120 per spare

For cold nights, keep spares in an inside pocket against your body heat.


Filters (The Minimalist Approach)

Full disclosure: I'm a NiSi authorised reseller. These are the filters I use in the field (NiSi S6 150mm Holder + True Colour CPL for my 14-24mm, plus NiSi 150×150mm Nano IR ND filters). I can offer better pricing than retail if you're buying through me. But filter choice is personal—if you prefer Lee, Kase, or Breakthrough, go with what works for your workflow.

For landscape:

Circular polariser (sized to fit your largest lens)

  • Cuts glare on water/rocks
  • Enhances sky contrast
  • NiSi True Colour CPL or Landscape CPL are my go-to options
  • Get B+W or Hoya HD if you're buying elsewhere

For long exposure:

ND filters (3-stop, 6-stop, 10-stop)

  • Allows long exposures in daylight for water motion
  • NiSi Nano IR ND filters work brilliantly for Australian coastal conditions
  • Skip variable NDs (they create colour casts)

For astro:

Light pollution filter (optional)

  • Only useful if shooting from light-polluted areas
  • Won't save a bad location, but helps suppress sodium vapour glow
  • NiSi Natural Night is excellent for Milky Way work near cities
  • Skip if you drive to dark sites
Controversial take: You don't need graduated ND filters if you're comfortable with exposure blending in post. Save the money.

Filter holder systems:

If you're going the square filter route (graduated NDs, etc.), NiSi's S6 and V7 systems are what I use. The magnetic quick-release actually saves time in the field. Reach out if you want pricing on specific filters or holder systems.


Headlamp (Red Light Mode)

  • Blukar Headlamp Head Torch or similar (~$40-80)
  • Red mode preserves night vision
  • Rechargeable (less waste)
What I use: Blukar Headlamp Head Torch. Does the job, affordable, reliable.

Dew Heater for Astro

  • Camera lens dew heater strap — ~$40-80
  • Prevents condensation during long exposures
  • Essential for humid coastal astro shoots

Part 7: The Upgrade Roadmap

Most photographers upgrade gear when they should upgrade skills. Here's when upgrades actually make sense.

Year 1: Master Your Current Gear

  • Learn the exposure triangle thoroughly (aperture, shutter speed, ISO)
  • Understand when to use each focal length
  • Practice focus stacking until it's second nature
  • Scout locations obsessively
Don't upgrade yet.

Year 2: Lens First, Body Later

If you're still shooting:

  • Kit lens → Get a fast prime (biggest image quality jump)
  • Cheap tripod → Get carbon fibre (stability transform)

Body upgrade only if:

  • Your current camera is genuinely failing (shutter count worn out)
  • You've outgrown the sensor (printing 1m+ wide)
  • Weather sealing limitations are costing you shots

Year 3: Specialisation

By now you know whether you prefer:

  • Ultra-wide landscapes → Invest in 14-24mm f/2.8-class lens
  • Astro deep-sky → Get a star tracker
  • Print sales → Upgrade to high-res body

The Lifetime Landscape Kit

If I could only own three lenses for landscape/astro, it'd be:

  1. 14-30mm f/4 (wide zoom for scouting + landscapes)
  2. 20mm f/1.8 (astro specialist, sharp as hell)
  3. 70-200mm f/4 (compression, isolating elements)

That covers 90% of landscape scenarios and 100% of astro.

Part 8: System Choice

Nikon vs Sony vs Canon vs Fuji

"Which brand should I choose?" is the wrong question. Better question: "Which system has the lenses I'll actually use?"

Nikon Z-Mount

Strengths:

  • Excellent 1.8 primes (cheap, sharp, compact)
  • Best ergonomics for tactile control
  • Z9/Z8 if you want resolution + speed
  • Great weather sealing across the range

Weaknesses:

  • Third-party lens support slower to arrive
  • Budget Z-mount glass still limited

Best for: Landscape shooters who value build quality and haptics

Sony E-Mount

Strengths:

  • Deepest lens ecosystem (Sigma, Tamron, Samyang all excellent)
  • Widest range of body options (A7C for compact, A7R for resolution)
  • Best third-party support

Weaknesses:

  • Menus are better but still convoluted
  • Battery life lags Nikon/Canon
  • Cheaper bodies lack weather sealing

Best for: Photographers who want flexibility and third-party options

Canon RF-Mount

Strengths:

  • Best autofocus (wasted on landscapes, but nice for versatility)
  • Superb lens optics (RF L-series)
  • Excellent colour science
  • Great weather sealing

Weaknesses:

  • RF lenses are expensive
  • Third-party lens lockout (mostly resolved, but lingering concern)

Best for: Hybrid shooters (landscape + wildlife/events)

Fujifilm X-Mount

Strengths:

  • Compact APS-C system
  • Film simulations (fun for jpegs)
  • Excellent build quality
  • Tactile controls photographers love

Weaknesses:

  • APS-C sensor = worse low-light than full-frame
  • Limited astro capability vs FF
  • No upgrade path to larger sensor

Best for: Travel landscape photographers who value size/weight

Part 9: Australian-Specific Considerations

Where to buy, warranty considerations, climate challenges

Where to Buy

New Gear:

  • DigiDirect (competitive pricing, physical stores)
  • Camera House (local support)
  • Ted's Cameras (price-match policy)
  • Georges Cameras (good for pro-level support)

Used Gear:

  • CameraPro (Sydney-based, good reputation)
  • Facebook Marketplace (meet in person, test before buying)
  • eBay Australia (check seller ratings carefully)
  • Gumtree (bargains if you're patient)
Warning: Grey import cameras save $200-500 but void local warranty. I've had mixed experiences. If buying grey, budget for potential repair costs.

Warranty Considerations

  • Australian Consumer Law protects you for "reasonable time"
  • Local stock = peace of mind
  • Grey import = cheaper but risk if things break

For expensive bodies (>$3K), I buy local. For lenses, I'll risk grey market.


Climate Challenges

Humidity (QLD Coast):

  • Invest in dry cabinets or silica gel storage
  • Weather sealing matters more here
  • Dew heaters essential for astro

Dust (Outback):

  • Sensor cleaning kits ($40)
  • Rocket blowers, not compressed air
  • Weather sealing critical

Salt Spray (Seascapes):

  • Rinse gear with fresh water after shoots
  • Microfibre cloths to wipe down
  • Don't cheap out on lens protection

What I Actually Use

My current landscape + astro kit (as of Feb 2026)

Transparency: This is the gear I'm currently shooting with. I'll be upgrading some items this year, but this setup has served me well for professional landscape and astro work. For my complete, up-to-date gear list, visit dylanknight.com.au/mygearlist

Camera & Lenses

Lenses

  • NIKKOR 14–24mm f/2.8G — Ultra-wide workhorse for landscapes and astro
  • Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 — Compression and detail work
  • Nikon 2× Converter — Extends reach when needed

Support & Stability

Tripod System

  • Leofoto LP-364CEX Poseidon — 4-section carbon fibre, water-resistant, levelling base built-in
  • Leofoto LH-40LR Ball Head — 40mm low-profile ball head with LR-50 quick release lever clamp and NP-50 plate
  • Leofoto L-Bracket — Model-specific for my camera body

Filters

NiSi Filter System

  • NiSi S6 150mm Holder + True Colour CPL — Designed for 14–24mm ultra-wide lenses
  • NiSi 150×150mm Nano IR ND Filters — Various strengths for long exposures

Astrophotography

Star Tracker

  • Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i (Pro Pack) — For tracked deep-sky work

Field Accessories

  • Blukar Headlamp Head Torch — Red light mode for night work
  • Spare batteries (always carry 3+ for cold astro nights)
  • Fast memory cards (UHS-II minimum)
  • Microfibre cloths (salt spray and coastal conditions)
  • Dew heater straps (humid Queensland conditions)
Why share this? Transparency matters. These are tools I trust in Australian field conditions—from humid coastal shoots to alpine astro work. If I recommend something in this guide, it's either what I use or what I'd buy if I were starting fresh today.

Part 10: Working With Me on Gear Purchases

If you're ready to buy, here's how I can help

What I Can Offer

NiSi Filters (Authorised Reseller)

  • Circular polarisers, ND filters, light pollution filters
  • S6 and V7 filter holder systems
  • Better pricing than retail available—reach out for specifics
  • Full Australian warranty and support
  • These are the filters I use on every shoot—I wouldn't recommend them otherwise

Leofoto Tripods & Heads (Authorised Reseller)

  • Carbon fibre tripods (Ranger, Poseidon, Summit series)
  • Ball heads, pan-tilt heads, levelling bases
  • L-brackets and quick-release plates
  • Better pricing than retail available—reach out for specifics
  • Australian warranty, local support

Nikon Cameras & Lenses (10% Discount Access)

  • Genuine Nikon Australia stock only (no grey imports)
  • Full local warranty (critical for expensive bodies)
  • 10% off using code DYLAN10
  • No commission to me—genuinely just passing on the discount

Custom Orders & Other Brands

If you're after something specific that I don't stock (other tripod brands, specialty astro gear, lens adapters, etc.), I'm always happy to point you in the right direction or recommend trusted sources.


How This Works (No Pressure Process)

  1. You've done your research — Read this guide, know what you want/need, ready to purchase (not just browsing)
  2. Contact me with specifics — Email with subject "Gear Inquiry - [what you're after]", include what you're buying, timeline, any questions
  3. I send pricing + availability — Usually within 24 hours, transparent pricing (no hidden fees), shipping costs included
  4. You decide — Compare with retail if you want, no pressure if you buy elsewhere
  5. If you proceed — I process the order, gear ships directly to you, you get tracking + support

When to Buy Retail Instead

You should buy from a retail store if:

  • You want to physically test gear before buying
  • You prefer in-store customer service
  • You're buying on finance (I can't offer payment plans)
  • The price difference is negligible (<$30)
  • You want immediate pickup (I ship, not same-day)

There's zero judgment either way. I'm here if the pricing helps; retail stores are great if that suits you better.


What I Won't Do

I won't:

  • Pressure you to buy through me
  • Recommend gear you don't need just to make a sale
  • Sell grey import stock (genuine warranty or nothing)
  • Compete on bottom-dollar pricing for cheap gear
  • Stock or sell anything I wouldn't use myself
This isn't a gear shop—it's a value-add for newsletter subscribers who are making informed purchases anyway.

Ready to Purchase?

For gear pricing inquiries:
Email: dylan@dylanknight.com.au
Subject: "Gear Inquiry - [item]"

I can help with: NiSi filters • Leofoto tripods • Nikon cameras/lenses (10% off with code DYLAN10) • Custom orders

Average response time: 24 hours

Closing Thoughts

The best gear is the stuff you'll actually take out and use. I've seen photographers lug $15K setups to locations and never get out of the car because it's too heavy. I've also seen stunning work from 10-year-old cameras and manual lenses.

Three principles:

  1. Buy once, buy right — Mid-tier gear that lasts beats budget gear you replace
  2. Lenses outlive bodies — Invest in glass, bodies are temporary
  3. Skills compound, gear doesn't — A $3K camera won't make you a better photographer, but 100 field sessions will

Photography Workshops

If you found this guide helpful, you'll benefit from hands-on field teaching. I run small-group workshops across Queensland and New Zealand.

What's included in workshops:

  • Field sessions at locations I've pre-scouted for conditions
  • Planning methods: tide/swell/wind/moon phase correlation
  • On-location coaching for composition and exposure
  • Small groups (3-4 people unless otherwise stated)
  • Post-processing sessions
  • Documented safety practices + $20M public liability insurance
View Current Workshops

Don't see dates that suit?
Join the 2026 Workshop Waitlist for priority access when new dates are released.
Planning ahead? Check the 2027 Workshop Calendar for advance notice of next year's dates.